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28 Sept 2024, 09:56

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    'In the end, it's a potent combination of all these factors that makes The Old Man of Stoer my favourite climb. The improbability and transience of the stack itself; the epic location; the spirit of adventure; and the quality of the rock climbing. Above all, though, it's the vast tapestry of rich experiences, and wonderful memories, that I ha... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=783622
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    Sonnie Trotter just dopped this 15-year-old video of Jess Huey climbing one of Canada's most famous pitches The post Jesse Huey on The Shadow in Squamish appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/jesse-huey-on-the-shadow-in-squamish/
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    In this month’s Prescription, an expert climber made two crucial errors in her rope ascension/top-rope solo system. She fortunately escaped with relatively minor injuries. This accident was featured in the 2024 Accidents in North American Climbing. On October 8, 2023 Whitney Clark was ascending a fixed rope at the start of Valkyrie (17 pitches, 5.11+) when her single ascension device was jammed by a sling. She fell 30 feet to the ground. Clark wrote to ANAC: “We woke at around 6 a.m. and made our way to the fixed line from the day before. The days were short and we had many pitches to do. My partner, Luka Krajnc, went first, using a Grigri to jug and then transitioning to climbing. About 40 feet up, he clove-hitched the rope to a bolt. I then started jugging with a single Micro Traxion. Thirty feet up, I leaned back on the rope. My body weight wasn’t supported because the sling around my neck [part of the top-rope solo setup] got sucked into the device and caught in the teeth of the Traxion. The rope was sliding against the sling. I hadn’t tied a backup knot.” Clark attempted to wrap the rope around her leg. But her rope was new, thin, and slippery. She wrote, “I grabbed the rope and slowly started sliding down. Eventually the rope burn was too painful and I let go. I hit the ground, landed on my feet, and fell backward. I struck my lower back and then my head. I was wearing a helmet. Because the ground was angled, some of the force was dissipated, though I landed six inches from a large rock spike. “I never lost consciousness but was in a bit of shock. Luka rappelled down and did a spinal exam. He got me comfortable, and I sat there for a while. I had pain in my back and my left ankle. I used my inReach to call for a rescue while Luka retrieved our stuff. I started crawling and butt-scooting to where a heli could reach me. I would have loved to have self-rescued, but it’s a 16-mile hike out. It took about 2.5 hours of crawling to make it to a flat place. Four hours later, a helicopter airlifted me to the Visalia Level III trauma center.”  Whitney Clark’s progress-capture device failed when the as-yet-unused retention sling got stuck in the device as she was ascending. It is common practice to use a sling and an elastic connection to hold the progress-capture device upright as one climbs along a fixed rope. Photo: Luka Krajnc Top-rope soloing is becoming increasingly popular. In this video, Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing, and IFMGA/AMGA guide Jason Antin are back to provide an accident analysis and give you some quick tips on how to mitigate risk when top-rope soloing. Top-rope soloing is an integral part of modern climbing. Currently, only one device (the El Mudo) is designed and commercially available for top-rope (and lead) soloing. There are many ways to configure these systems and we’ve demonstrated one possible solution here. Solo top-roping allows a climber to self-belay when no partner is available, for a team to work on individual sections of a route without the need for a belayer, or for two climbers to move simultaneously, as in this situation. The errors Clark made were using only one device to safeguard her progress and not tying a backup knot. “I was jugging by pulling on the rope, syncing up the slack, and sitting back,” Clark said. “The route was meandering and the fixed line didn’t allow me to readily climb, so I decided to jug straight up the initial blank slab. The sling around my neck was going to hold the Traxion upright [allowing the rope to feed freely] once I started climbing. I haven’t done any top-rope soloing since the accident. I probably will at some point, but I will definitely use two devices. This was the first time I only used a single progress-capture device.”  (Source: Whitney Clark.) Each membership is critical to the AAC’s work: advocating for climbing access and natural landscapes, offering essential knowledge to the climbing community through our accident analysis and documentation of cutting edge climbing, and supporting our members with our rescue benefit, discounts, grants and more. Plus, get the new 2025 member tee! https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/2/11/the-prescription
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    The Boardman Tasker this year goes to Headstrap: Legends and Lore from the Climbing Sherpas of Darjeeling The post Book About Sherpas Wins Esteemed Award appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/book-about-sherpas-wins-esteemed-award/
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    As part of the Banff Mountain Festival, A Gift from Kei Taniguchi will show this Sunday in the Bow Valley The post Kei Taniguchi Was a Cutting Edge Alpinist, Now a Film on Her Will Screen in Canmore appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/kei-taniguchi-was-a-cutting-edge-alpinist-now-a-film-on-her-will-screen-in-canmore/
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    In the final Boulder World Cup of the 2024 season in Seoul Max Milne and Erin McNeice both podium with Silver and Bronze medals respectively; Dayan Akhtar finishes in 4th. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/milne-and-mcneice-both-podium-in-seoul/
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    The young climber from Great Britain took the climbing world by storm this year and walked away from Paris with a win The post Here’s How Toby Roberts Won Olympic Gold appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/heres-how-toby-roberts-won-olympic-gold/
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    https://gripped.com/news/three-climbers-die-on-the-matterhorn/