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More #climbing gear, hot off the Bernina.

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  • American Alpine ClubA

    The Prescription—Ground Fall

    General News climbing
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    American Alpine ClubA
    It’s Rocktober and across the continent climbers are sending their projects. This month we remind you that mishaps in “safe” genres like sport climbing can have serious consequences. This accident occurred in 2019 and was only reported this year. However, in the newly published 2025 ANAC, we feature several similar groundfall accidents. As you’ll also see below, we’re also featuring a human factors post-accident analysis that reveals some recurrent themes and behavior patterns. These are introduced in an article written by Dr. Valerie Karr. On June 22, 2019 B, a male climber was leading Where Egos Dare (5.12a) as a cool-down after a long session. The four-bolt route was easy enough to run a quick lap and as a result B, “didn't take it seriously and was climbing very arrogantly… without careful consideration of the consequences.” Besides being short and punchy, the route also has several hard clips that put the leader within groundfall range. B was, “…cooling down after a hard day of projecting. At the third bolt I pulled a bunch of slack to clip and my foot popped.” He had placed his foot carelessly on a bad part of the hold when it slipped. He had an arm full of slack and, “…decked straight on my butt.” He suffered lumbar compression fractures and fractured sacrum. “I was mere inches away from a shelf that, that had I impacted with my lumbar spine, I would've undoubtedly been paralyzed.” Though in serious pain, he, “walked out under my own steam. Likely due to adrenaline.” B fell approximately 15 feet. A pit/trough below Where Egos Dare created a ledge that one could hit in a fall. He had stick clipped the first bolt but, “Had I stick clipped the third, this accident wouldn't have happened. Back then I considered it ‘cheating’ to clip more than the first, which in retrospect is silly.” He adds, “Sport climbing is flippin’ dangerous! For all the sketchy gear routes I've done in my life it was a 35' tall 12a sport climb that nearly cost me the ability to walk. Unfortunately, I don't think most sport climbers have a clue about this.” Finally, the fallen climber said, “I’d add that one should climb more carefully. Because this route was well below my redpoint level I didn't take it seriously. Ultimately, I put my foot to the right of the actual foothold and that is what did me in. Luckily, I'm physically 100% now, but it was such a close call that I definitely have residual psychological effects. My wife still has trouble belaying me despite it not being her fault. I think the psychological impacts of such accidents cannot be overstated.” (Source: Anonymous Climber.) This groundfall is a classic case of risk normalization in which repeated exposure to hazards without consequence, lowers the perception of danger. Over time, shortcuts—clipping from poor stances, eschewing procedures like a higher stick clip, and a casual approach to moderate climbing—diminish the perceived hazards of consequential terrain. On the day of his accident, B admitted he was climbing “carelessly,” on a warm-down route that was well within his ability. Other distracting factors contributed to an atmosphere of informality and distractions at the base of the crag that compounded a sense of invulnerability. B’s narrative also reveals how cultural values within climbing can magnify risk through what he called the “purity ethics.”Beyond simple overconfidence, B acknowledged an internalized idea that stick clipping beyond the first bolt was “cheating.” This belief overrode pragmatic risk assessment. Only after his accident did he reframe those values, prioritizing safety over style with an understanding that it’s “all contrived anyway.” (Source: Dr. Valerie Karr.) https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/10/15/the-prescriptionground-fall
  • IFSCI

    Curitiba crowd roar Boulder men to World Cup glory

    Videos climbing ifsc
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    IFSCI
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnpxae8BA9c
  • GrippedG

    Metolius Hardtop, a Light, Affordable, Durable Helmet

    General News climbing
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    GrippedG
    This is one of our favourite new helmets going into summer 2025 The post Metolius Hardtop, a Light, Affordable, Durable Helmet appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/metolius-hardtop-a-light-affordable-durable-helmet/
  • climber-magazineC

    Jim Pope aces his 100th Grit FA with Cloud Gate

    General News climbing
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    climber-magazineC
    Cloud Gate (Font 8B+) is Jim Pope’s 100th first ascent and it’s a real banger! https://www.climber.co.uk/news/jim-pope-aces-his-100th-grit-fa-with-cloud-gate/
  • JCMcHammyJ

    So there was actually climbing on the Nice climbing trip, too (between the rain...

    Pics and trips climbing climbingismypas sportclimbing limestoneclimbi nice
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    JCMcHammyJ
    So there was actually climbing on the Nice climbing trip, too (between the rain... which managed to be both more and less than expected...). La Turbie, as it turns out, felt really kinda sandbagged grade-wise (or maybe I was just sucking?)! But then the fun is in the movement and unlocking the puzzle, not the grade and it was a great trip with a fun bunch; Alesia Sidliarevich (with the excellent catches), Helen Finn, Carole Dawson, and Roy. #climbing #ClimbingIsMyPassion #SportClimbing #LimestoneClimbing #Nice #LaTurbie
  • UK ClimbingU

    Fri Night Vid War and Peace - A Craig Dorys Epic

    General News climbing
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    UK ClimbingU
    Originally graded E5, War and Peace, an epic 16-pitch traverse across Craig Dorys on loose and friable rock, was first climbed by Pat Littlejohn and Steve Sustad in 1997 over two-and-a-half days, with 20 hours of climbing time. The Lln Peninsula guidebook quotes Pat, saying: "It would go well in two days with a biv... https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=775150
  • devnullD

    Practice anchors install (w/ pictures!)

    General Climbing diy climbing
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    devnullD
    Okay, I did a thing. Yesterday I briefly outlined my plans to build a set of practice anchors in my garage. After a quick trip to the hardware store, I got what I needed and as promised, here are some progress pics and the final result. [image: 1724386660906-pxl_20240822_143020828-resized.jpg] [image: 1724386655118-pxl_20240822_194756349-resized.jpg] [image: 1724386621597-pxl_20240822_204026195.mp-resized.jpg] [image: 1724387298601-pxl_20240823_021253567-resized.jpg] Some notes The initial plan was to use tee nuts or threaded inserts, but I wasn't able to easily get those, so the fallback was to use regular nuts and to drill a recess into the back of the board so they'd sit flush. There was some splintering the first time I tried to use a spade bit. Practice makes perfect! I expected the studs in my garage to be 16 inches apart, but they were 21.5 inches. Measure twice, cut once! I was today years old when I discovered a 2x4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches. Cost breakdown (Canadian dollars): Fixe 316 SS Bolt Hanger 1/2" (MEC, $2.93 apiece) Camp 8mm Oval Steel Quicklink (MEC, $4.95 apiece) 1" spade bit ($8.98) 1/2" threaded bolt ($3.85 apiece) 1/2" nut ($0.26 apiece) Free/on-hand items: Scrap wood (2x4) Power drill and drill bits Adjustable wrench and socket wrench Deck screws Total: $32.96 CAD
  • climbingC

    Weekend Whipper: Yikes! Bridge Climber Decks When All His Pieces Pull

    General News climbing
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    climbingC
    https://www.climbing.com/videos/serious-bridge-climbing-accident/