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Rome Ridge, Arthur's Pass, NZ

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  • 0 Votes
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    American Alpine ClubA
    In this episode, we sit down with legend Jack Tackle to discuss all things cutting edge. We begin by diving into the many first ascents of Jack’s own alpinism career, his progress as a climber, and his deep history with the AAC. We cover the evolution of adventure grants in climbing, how the AAC’s Cutting Edge Grant got started, and why it’s the premiere climbing grant in today’s climbing scene. We also cover the last few years of successes that have come out of Cutting Edge Grant expeditions, a behind the scenes look at some of the considerations these alpinists face when pursuing such high-end objectives, and how Jack’s experience can shed light on the significance of these ascents. Plus, we cover some of the other AAC grants and how they meet the needs of climbers at all levels.  We don’t cover the exact details of the expedition planning process, or how important it is for these expeditions to be respectful and cognizant of both local cultures and environmental issues, or what happens when things go disastrously wrong. That’s for another episode! If you love following the cutting edge of climbing, or are considering applying to the Cutting Edge Grant yourself this year, or want to soak up Jack’s wisdom, this dive into the history and present of adventure grants is a fascinating look at the logistics it takes to pursue the cutting edge!  You still have time to apply to the 2024 Cutting Edge Grant, presented by Black Diamond! Apply before midnight on Dec 31, 2024. Apply to the Cutting Edge Grant Learn More About Jack Tackle’s Legendary Alpine Climbing Career Apply to Other AAC Grants https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2024/12/23/climb-behind-the-scenes-of-the-cutting-edge-grant-with-jack-tackle
  • 4 Votes
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    devnullD
    A new favourite in the area, Bottle Glass has got some nice unpolished moderates away from the crowds at the main wall. All you have to put up with is a floor covered in glass shards from the practices of local drunks, hence the name. [image: 1729797273141-pxl_20241020_152616076-resized.jpg] [image: 1729797283193-pxl_20241020_164004470-resized.jpg] [image: 1729797284530-pxl_20241020_185208105-resized.jpg] [image: 1729797285847-pxl_20241020_174903784-resized.jpg]
  • New 5.14 Roof Crack Climbed Without a Rope

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    GrippedG
    Tom Randall has completed one of his most audacious projects to date, a 60-metre horizontal offwidth in Germany The post New 5.14 Roof Crack Climbed Without a Rope appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/new-5-14-roof-crack-climbed-without-a-rope/
  • Seb Bouin Climbing 5.15a/b Sport with a Crack Glove

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    GrippedG
    A new Black Diamond film showcases Seb Bouin's Jamming Destruction 5.15a/b, a route that requires a hand jammie for the crux move The post Seb Bouin Climbing 5.15a/b Sport with a Crack Glove appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/seb-bouin-climbing-5-15a-b-sport-with-a-crack-glove/
  • “Retreat Was Out of the Question”

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    climbingC
    Quentin Roberts writes about one of the most badass first ascents in recent memory: His mind-bending—and Piolet-winning—trip up Jirishanca’s previously unclimbed Southeast Ridge, in 2022. https://www.climbing.com/places/first-ascent-jirishanca-peru-southeast-ridge/
  • Sir Chris Bonington turns 90 today

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    climber-magazineC
    Sir Chris Bonington turns 90 with a vow to fulfil a promise for a friend. Sir Chris will celebrate his 90th with close family and friends in the Lake District. https://www.climber.co.uk/news/sir-chris-bonington-turns-90-today/
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    climbingC
    “Just because you are the belayer,” notes this week’s whippee, “doesn’t mean you can’t get hurt.” https://www.climbing.com/videos/climber-takes-big-fall-from-roof-crack/
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    GrippedG
    Climbing will be taking place in its second Summer Olympic Games at the end of this month, here's a breakdown The post Alex Honnold on What You Need to Know For Paris Olympics appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/news/alex-honnold-on-what-you-need-to-know-for-paris-olympics/