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  • Found in Translation

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    American Alpine ClubA
    Originally published in Guidebook XIII Across the Pacific, on the small island of Taiwan, climber Maurice Chen received an email from Dougald MacDonald, the Executive Editor of the American Alpine Club. It was July 2024, and the summer air hung as heavy as mist. Attached to the email was a large document: the full version of the 2024 Accidents in North American Climbing (ANAC). Chen called his two colleagues at the Taiwan Outdoor Climbersā€™ Coalition (TOCC), Matt Robertson and Ta Chi Wang. Together, they began their meticulous workā€”marking pages, circling terms, and discussing any accident relevant to Taiwanese climbing in obsessive detail. The task ahead would be long and tedious. Taiwan is an island shaped like a yam, floating between the South and East China Seas. It sits in the shadow of two superpowers, one threatening to occupy it and another half-heartedly protecting it. A young island by geological standards, it was formed by the collision of two tectonic plates. The island is 89 miles wide and 250 miles long, with its eastern half stitched to its western half by a spine of mountain ranges. Among these ranges are 151 peaks taller than 10,000 feet, with the tallest, Jade Mountain, standing just shy of 13,000 feet. Taiwan is a land of sea and sky. The islandā€™s diverse climate shifts from coastal tide pools to alpine tundra and back to tide pools in less than a hundred miles. Thanks to these rich natural landscapes, the Taiwanese have always embraced outdoor activities such as hiking, mountaineering, diving, biking, surfing, and climbing. The first mountaineering clubs of Taiwan were formed as early as 1905. Chen and Robertson belonged to Taiwanā€™s third generation of climbers, Wang to the second. The first generation of Taiwanese climbers were born during the Japanese occupation, and were early-century mountaineers, tackling the many tall peaks with traditional expedition and siege-style strategies. Mountaineering and hiking gained mainstream attention when a list of a hundred notable mountains was published in 1972, aptly named ā€œTaiwanā€™s Hundred Mountains.ā€ The serious Taiwanese mountaineer aspired to climb all hundred. By the late 1970s, mountaineering boots were the go-to climbing shoe, but tales of the Stonemasters had floated across the Pacific. Wang remembers reading an issue of Climbing Magazine that his friends and brought back from the States, but without the internet, information passed slowly. The climbing scene lagged behind the Americans and Europeans by about half a decade. Gradually, Taiwanese climbers began distinguishing rock climbing from mountaineering. When Chen began climbing in the 1990s, free climbingā€”primarily trad climbingā€”was already widespread. By the time Robertson arrived in Taiwan in 2002, sport climbing had just begun to gain traction. In the mid-2010s, the indoor climbing scene boomed, and the number of gyms tripled. Due to the limited real estate in the maze-like Taiwanese cities, most of these facilities were bouldering gyms, which gave rise to the fourth generation of Taiwanese climbers, predominantly boulderers. Published annually since 1948, Accidents in North American Climbing documents the yearā€™s most significant and teachable climbing accidents. Get it annually as an AAC member. Each membership is critical to the AACā€™s work: advocating for climbing access and natural landscapes, offering essential knowledge to the climbing community, and supporting our members with our rescue benefit, discounts, grants and more.Ā  Chen and Robertson met at Long Dong (meaning ā€œDragonā€™s Caveā€), a seacliff climbing area on the northern end of the island. Climbers have compared Long Dong with the Shawangunks in New York or Clear Creek Canyon in Colorado, but Wang waves away those comparisonsā€”it cannot be compared because the serenity of home is an incomparable experience. Seacliffs rise out of the Pacific and waves crash behind the belayer, requiring not only knowledge of the rocks but knowledge of the tides. The lines are short and stout, punchy, getting the grade in less than 50 feet in most places. This was before the first climbing gym in Taiwan had opened, and the pair collaborated to pu... https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/2/4/guidebook-xiiivolunteer-spotlight
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    GrippedG
    SeĢbastien Berthe sent the Dawn Wall Free over a 14-day continuous push, topping out on January 31. We caught up with him to learn more about his ascent of the worldā€™s hardest big wall The post SeĢb Bertheā€™s Free Ascent of the Dawn Wall: Interview appeared first on Gripped Magazine. https://gripped.com/profiles/seb-berthes-free-ascent-of-the-dawn-wall-interview/
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    climbingC
    https://www.climbing.com/news/first-ascent-of-gasherbrum-iiis-west-ridge/
  • A Journey Through Time by Adam Ferro

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    ClimbingZineC
    https://climbingzine.com/a-journey-through-time-by-adam-ferro/
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    UK ClimbingU
    Para Climbing has been confirmed as a new sport for inclusion in the Los Angeles 2028 Paralympic Games.The LA28 Organising Committee is the first ever to propose a new sport to the Paralympic program. TheInternational Paralympic Committee's Governing Board voted in the proposal on 26 June. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=772337
  • Success on Atlantis, a Yosemite A4 Big Wall

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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/profiles/success-on-atlantis-a-yosemite-a4-big-wall/
  • Third V14 in 2024 for Shauna Coxsey

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    GrippedG
    https://gripped.com/news/third-v14-in-2024-for-shauna-coxsey/
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    HowNOT2H
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRVA-JCRnxo